Breeding Blue and Black Flemish
Giants
By Cathy Caracciolo
It
is no secret that many “Old
time” Flemish Giant breeders do not breed and show the
Blues. They consider them difficult (bordering on impossible!)
due to the fact that maintaining bone and size is not easy. Most
blues from the past could never be compared to the Sandies and
Fawns of today in type, size or bone. And they are right. But
the Blue color is a beautiful and unusual variety that should be
appreciated and improved before it is lost.
The Blue
variety was accepted to the ARBA Standard in 1919, the same year
as the Whites (and before the Fawns!). They were very popular
in the 1920’s and 30’s but fell out of favor over the next 40
years, much to the detriment of the gene pool.
The
blue is a recessive color that takes a genetic “back seat” to
any other color present. So maintaining the proper blue is
difficult if the “wrong” colors are bred together. But color
cannot
supersede the considerations for type and
bone. Over the last 20 years, it has been difficult to find
Blues with different genetic make-ups. They have been bred in
small pockets around the country, and it is only with great
effort that breeders got to share their gene pools. Out of
necessity, some lines tended to be inbred (or tightly line bred)
to the detriment of the variety. The gene pool was very small
and mixed (some breeders called it “polluted”) with other
colors. But a few hardy souls are trying to change that. The
number of Blues appearing on the show tables is way up in the
Northeast right now, and they are finally getting some
recognition. Over the last few years, ARBA is seeing a rise in
the number of Blues being registered and Grand Championed (for
the first time in over 10 years!). In 2004, at the ARBA
National Convention, the Blue Flemish Doe that took BOV got very
serious consideration for Best in Breed, with an honorable
mention by the judges.
When
starting out, you may not be able to get Blues that are perfect,
but know what you should be working towards. If you get a Blue
Flemish with excellent loin/hips but lacking in the shoulders or
length, then look for a complimentary (Blue/Black) Flemish that
has what your animal is missing. If you have good length, look
for one with the bone or rise you need. And have patience. It
may take several generations to see real improvement. Be very
particular with what you keep for breeding. Weigh your litters
as they grow. Start evaluating them at 6 weeks for bone and
rise. At 8-12 weeks, only keep the best one or two. One
advantage to the Blues and Blacks, you know if you have a good
base color from the onset!
My
research and personal experience has reinforced what I was told
years ago by some of the more established breeders (Not counting
the ones that told me to forget the blues and get a real
Flemish!). Blue should only be bred with Blue or “Self”
Blacks. Genetically speaking, a rabbit’s color is either an
“agouti” or a “self”. “Agouti” refers to a banded hair shaft, or
multiple colors in the coat (giving the appearance of rings in
the light gray, banding in the Sandy and Fawn, and flecking in
the Steel). A “Self” rabbit is one
solid
color. In Flemish, the “selfs” are Blue, Black and White. As
mentioned, Fawn, Light Gray, Sandy and Steel Gray are agoutis.
A “Self Black” is a solid Black rabbit with only Black or Blue
in the generations behind it.
The Blue
color is described
in the
Flemish Giant Standard as a deep, rich, slate blue color with
consistent color over the body and head. They are the only
variety with the Blue/Gray eye color. The Blue is, genetically
speaking, a dilute black. So crossing those colors will produce
consistent Blues and Blacks. The problems occur when introducing
an “Agouti Black” that appears to be a solid (Self) Black but
“carries” (descends from) Light Grays or Steels. Since breeding
Light Grays and/or Steels can produce Blacks, most blacks today
carry the agouti gene (even though they may look solid
black). This is why an honest pedigree is so important to
breeding good blues. A Black that carries agouti genes will
severely affect the Blue color, throwing “Steel Blues” (Blue
with white ticking), white ear lacing, white toe nails, wrong
eye color, poor under color, etc, all of which are
disqualifications on the show table. Keep in mind that ear
lacing and ticking may not show up until the rabbit is 6-10
months of age. So it pays to know what’s behind your lines so
there are no surprises. I’ve been disappointed a few times
raising what I thought was a promising young Blue, only to have
it develop white ear lacing or white ticking on the body.
Keep in
mind that finding a totally self Black is almost impossible,
(referred to as the “Holy Grail” for a Blue breeding
program!). But if you are looking for a Black to use with a Blue
breeding program, look for one with as little “agouti
colors” as possible in the pedigree. Or consider a Black out of
a Blue Breeding program.
If
possible, I have always used a Black in every second generation
with my Blues. This keeps the Blue a deep rich color as
described in the Standard. To explain, if I do a Blue/Blue
breeding, those offspring will be bred to a Black. Offspring of
a Blue/Black breeding will be mated with a Blue, if possible. I
say “if possible”, because nothing is perfect and it can be
difficult to maintain the variety and numbers of rabbits
needed. But always keep in mind that you owe it to the animals
to breed the best you can, and as close to the Standard as
possible.
A short
word on
pedigrees… that piece of paper that
diagrams what’s “behind” your rabbit. It usually only show 3-4
generations, including the lead rabbit. Hidden or recessive
genes can be carried for many more generations than what’s
printed on the paper. A case in point… one of my first
Blue/Black breedings produced a pair of Whites. They were
beautiful (and they got me started with my separate White
lines…) but why did they come out of that litter? There were no
whites on the pedigree! It took much research and the
cooperation of other dedicated breeders, but we found a white
behind BOTH parents, 11 and 13 generations back. That is a long
time to carry a recessive gene! (Just for your information, for
a white to show up in a “non-white” breeding, BOTH sire and dam
must carry a white gene. In breeding White to White, you will
ALWAYS get White.)
Keep
accurate records on each breeding and what comes out of
it. Sometimes two “so-so” animals will throw the most amazing
offspring. Know your animals and what’s behind them. Good
breeding will show in your animals and reflect on the show
table. Shortcuts and quick fixes won’t work. Persistence and
patience will. Develop your stock for the right reasons. Know
the Standard and know what you are working towards. And don’t
be afraid to ask questions. Ask other breeders, get more than
one opinion, ask Judges. Don’t be dissuaded.
Breeding
the Blues
and Blacks is not for the faint of heart
or the breeder that has to win every time they go to a show. You
have to really love the variety and be willing to work towards
the goal of producing a rabbit that meets or exceeds the
Standard. Know the breed, know the Standard and be aware of the
challenge. And from me to you, Good Luck!
